I arranged for a late check-in and by the time we drive through the main gate of the Kurland Estate it is already dark. But even in the shadowy night, driving up the lane to the main building, the sound of a thousand frogs and crickets wafting through the open car windows, I can feel there is something really special about this place.
Although it’s late, we are warmly welcomed at the car by the manager Diego and his friendly porter. Being from Argentina Diego is as exuberant as the locals we met during our visit to that country a few years ago. He’s only been at Kurland a few months but talks about the place with such passion you’d think he’s been there his whole life.
They escort us through a rose garden to our suite. As I walk in I let out a little breath as I take in my surroundings. The colossal four poster bed covered in the most luxurious linen, a library of books covering half of the one wall, the lounge area with its comfy oversized armchairs in front of a big fireplace, and the roses – all of it encased in the classic grandeur of a Cape Karoo-style mansion. The massive bathroom with its black and white chequered floor and settee next to the bath is pure luxury.
I find out later that the exquisite furnishings were sourced from family heirlooms and works of art discovered in Paris and Milan. Luxurious fabrics were sourced from the latest fabric trends from St Leger & Viney. Original artwork from Everard Read Gallery and Kurland’s private collection grace the walls. The hotel only has 12 rooms and each one is unique.
Carl and I are both dying for a cup of coffee but there’s none to be found in the room, so we leave our things and take a stroll up to the manor house. The décor here is as exquisite as in our suite, a feat for which Kurland has won many international awards. The wide porch near the library has a few wicker lounge suites around low coffee tables and a fire is burning at the one end. Sitting back on the couch next to the fireplace, listening to Youssou N’Dour and Neneh Cherry in the background, I imagine this place in colonial times. The words “I had a farm in Africa…” linger in the back of my mind. Kurland is far more luxurious than Karen Blixen’s house in Out of Africa, but I can imagine her standing on this porch, looking across the rose gardens one hand shielding her eyes from the sun, desperately calling for her Farah.
I am hauled back to reality when our friendly waiter arrives with a tray of coffee for us and hot chocolate for the girls – served in the prettiest floral pink cups and saucers with silver spoons. Hannah and Georgia look like real little ladies sipping their warm drinks from the dainty cups…until of course they start slurping it up from their spoons, giggling in between their fits of laughter. Having your cocoa served in a teacup fit for the Queen when you’re five is always a good reason to act like a silly monkey. “That’s it! Off to bed with you two.” I hope we’re not disturbing anyone as the giggles continue to resonate down the pathway back to our room, although I have to say that the staff seem genuinely happy to have children around here.
When we get there, a fire is burning in the fireplace, the under floor heating is on, and the electric blankets are warming up the beds. I can’t wait to dive in with my book. A very steep staircase rises up to the charming loft room with its twin beds and own bathroom. These lofts have been designed especially for children, and are fitted with 2 or 3 or if required 4 beds. Some have their own play area with toys. There is a safety gate at the top of the stairs but be aware if you have very small children.
I literally wake up to the smell of roses. There are quite a few bunches in the room and they smell magnificent, their scent permeating the suite as if I’m lying in a rose garden. Kurland is famous for its roses, which are displayed everywhere. The historic rose gardens provide their dedicated floral staff with an abundance of fragrant flowers virtually all year round.
I open the big heavy curtains to see what lies beyond our abode and I have to hold my breath. I walk out onto the big private patio and look out at the landscape in front of me. Horses are grazing in the paddocks below us and rolling fields stretch out into the distance. It’s still early and there’s a slight mist outside but it looks like it’s going to be a nice day. I sit down at the table on the patio, able to appreciate my surroundings for a few minutes more until the girls come bounding out of the room to spill their divine enthusiasm for life all over my thoughts. I would have loved to enjoy my early morning coffee right there, but then I remembered there wasn’t any. So we all quickly got ready and made our way back up to the manor house for breakfast. The dining room isn’t very big but it is as gorgeous as the rest of the house. After a full breakfast for us and eggs and sausage for the girls, we’re off to go and explore.
Our first stop, of course, is the children’s play room next to the spa and the gym. It’s a big room with the biggest couch I’ve ever seen. There’s a large TV, table tennis, pool table, a small table and chairs for the little ones, and cupboards full of toys, books, crayons and sporty stuff. The girls grab some books and crayons while Carl and I stake out the tennis court. I haven’t played for many years but we’ve been talking about getting into it again often. So here’s our chance. We grab some rackets and before we know it all four of us are sweating it out on the court. It’s a game of hit and miss but we’re having the time of our lives.
After our stint at Wimbledon we go for a swim. There are four pools at Kurland so you can take your pick. Naturally we opt for the plunge pool at the kids play area which also sports a lovely jungle gym. The estate grounds are huge and you can explore on foot, on bike or on quad bike. Down below the tennis courts we spot a massive pond, more like a lake, with the most beautiful giant water lilies floating on the surface. There are a few of these giant ponds and we take a stroll to each one.
Later in the afternoon we all go for a quad-ride – the estate is just too beautiful for words. We drive all the way up to the pavilion where they host their international polo contests. Even this boasts a play area for kids.
Dinner on Saturday evening is superb – deliciously prepared sirloin for us, spaghetti and lasagne for the girls. We eat together in the dining room but children are also welcome to dine at the chef’s table or in the quaint conservatory next to the farmhouse-style kitchen. The chef will literally make them anything they fancy! A highlight for kids is the cooking activities in the kitchen. Kurland promotes healthy living for young guests who are encouraged to help the chefs in their extensive organic vegetable garden, collecting fresh fruit and veggies for their dinner.
After supper we enjoy our coffee in our usual spot next to the fireplace on the veranda – where the fire burns 24 hours a day. Tonight the girls are quieter, spent after a busy day. We’re all a bit sad that we have to leave tomorrow.
I’d been looking forward to meeting our host Peter Behr. During our conversation with him and Glenda, his sister-in-law, over tea on Sunday morning, this friendly and vibrant grandson of a Russian baron tells us the story of how he grew up in this manor house of over 120 years old. More than half a century ago, Baron Peter Behr bought the Estate, which he named Kurland after the Baltic province where he was born. Baron Peter Behr’s first enterprise was fruit trees and youngberries. These would support him and his concerns till the tracts of pine trees he planted on Kurland could mature sufficiently to be logged. Kurland was sold off by his son Baron Nicky Behr after the fire in 1998 that swept through The Crags and destroyed the pine plantations. A portion of it was purchased by Clifford Alpheck, and a new era in the history of The Crags began. In 2000, Peter, and his wife Dianne, transformed the family homestead into the Luxury Boutique Hotel it is today.
I must say that this place feels much more like a homestay than a regular hotel but without in any way compromising the level of service provided. When we left we didn’t feel like guests, but more like friends who came to visit.
During our stay Hannah asked a few times if she could pick a rose but of course I told her she couldn’t. When we said goodbye to Diego I asked him if she could have one. Without a moment’s hesitation he went off to the flower room and got her a whole big bunch. She was over the moon, pressing the bouquet to her nose like it was a scented silk handkerchief. It made me realise how wonderful it is to see moments in life through the eyes of a child. Sometimes you need to slow down and appreciate the small things that can give you much pleasure, such as smelling a rose.
Contact:
Reservations:
Shireen Bengeza
Email: [email protected]
Tel: +27 (44) 534 8082
Fax: +27 (44) 534 8699
UK & European Office:
Suzanne Bayly-Coupe
Email: [email protected]
Tel: +44 (131) 476 6822
23 Warriston Crescent, Edinburgh, EH3 5LB, UK
Web: www.kurland.co.za