Until recently we have spent most of our Breede River holidays in the Malgas area, about 30 kms upriver. Lately however, we have been spending a lot of time with Sarah and Giles, great friends of ours, at their holiday house in Witsand. My wonderful memories of holidays here can be picked up whenever I need to, as they lie speckled along the river banks and the beach and amongst the dunes in the north.
So you can imagine my joy when we received an invitation to visit the De Hoop Nature Reserve – the expanse of untouched land that borders our usual route to Malgas, a standard part of our journey, yet one undiscovered by us.
The 36 000 hectare reserve is a favourite destination for hikers, cyclists, bird watchers and whale watchers. Its true beauty more than anything for us, is that it’s a natural playground for children…and their keepers.
We arrived late on Wednesday afternoon. We somehow missed our picnic lunch and thanks to the ever helpful staff, managed to squeeze in a scrumptious lunch at the Fig Tree Restaurant. Lunch was absolutely wonderful. Smoked chicken tramezini for me, steak roll for Carl (we both said it was the best we’ve had…ever), sandwiches and chips for the girls. The wine was superb.
Just before lunch we checked into one of the Opstal houses. There are three of them and they are perfect for families. Set amongst the Milkwood trees, the house has three spacious bedrooms, a fully equipped kitchen, a lovely new bathroom and an outside braai area. If the weather was slightly better, we would have spent much of our time around the braai, discussing our experiences of the day that’s been and our plans for the next. We were also constantly aware of the warnings to keep our doors and windows closed at all times when not around as the roguish baboons on the reserve find any given chance to wreak havoc on a chalet irresistible. We saw many of them and the girls loved their antics as they ducked and dived when a ranger or staff member reproached them – like naughty children.
De Hoop also has camping and caravanning sites, more luxurious self-catering cottages and five-star, fully catered lodges. There really is something for every family. Some of the units don’t have electricity and evenings spent here evoke the nostalgia of a time when firelight and paraffin lanterns were par for the course.
After our late lunch, we eagerly hopped into the Landrover to explore the reserve. Not all the accommodation is set right on the beach so some driving is required to get around. We headed straight for the beach just below Koppie Alleen.
Nestled amongst the fynbos, Koppie Alleen is private and has direct access to the beach. The local fisherman-style cottage boasts a Mediterranean-style living area with a huge indoor fireplace – perfect for Cape winters. The protected outdoor area looks onto the beach, with sun-loungers, umbrellas and a braai area. With four bedrooms and two bathrooms, this is perfect for extended families or groups of friends.
De Hoop’s marine reserve is the breeding ground for 40% of the worldwide population of Southern Right Whales. Dolphins, seals and other sea creatures abound here. The time of year didn’t allow us the privilege of seeing any of these, but when we hit the dunes that first afternoon, I could hardly believe my eyes. We all raced each other up the dunes and as we reached the top, I had to stop and stare. Endless dunes, the colour of magnolia, run parallel to the cobalt sea. If the dunes were more bronze or Arylide yellow I could easily have imagined myself on the edge of the Namib Desert in Namibia. Carl agreed it was the most magnificent site to behold. I was reminded of something that I recently read. It said: “Climb up on some hill at sunrise. Everybody needs perspective once in a while, and you’ll find it there.”
We made our way across several dunes and then down, down, down till we were on the beach below Koppie Alleen. The beach is endless, with turquoise rock pools scattered along the way. It’s great for snorkelling and the girls always love playing in the pools – observing and trying to catch the creatures that live in it.
I sat down on the damp sand, while Carl and the kids frolicked in the water, laughing and playing like no-one was watching, without a single care in the world. The sun had set, I picked myself up reluctantly and we made our way back to the chalet. Dinner waited and tomorrow was another day.
One big bonus on this holiday was that there are no television sets in the chalets. It makes for a proper break from the distractions of everyday life in the city, and although our kids would make use of it if it was there, they certainly didn’t miss it at all. We had a wonderful dinner in the restaurant – accompanied by assistant general manager Sebastian, and afterward went to bed, spent and excited about what tomorrow might bring.
Even though we woke up to less than perfect weather the next day, there is plenty to do in De Hoop. Few other reserves offer as complete an outdoor experience. Off the beach you are surrounded by a floral sensation of rare fynbos plants and diverse antelope. If you are a keen bird watcher, you can observe wading birds on the shores of the vlei, and the Potberg Mountains are home to a colony of endangered Cape vultures. Activities offered at De Hoop include stargazing, a marine walk, mountain bike trails, bird and fynbos walks and between May and December, some of the best whale-watching in the world.
After breakfast, we arranged another picnic basket with the restaurant. We picked one of the 4X4 tracks and made our way down to Tierhoek, on the edge of the vlei. It was a slightly steep walk down to the picnic area but what a brilliant site it was! No rain, clouds or wind. It was warm and dry and so quiet. In the basket was a blanket and we laid our youngest down to enjoy her afternoon nap in peace. What eventually woke her up was our munching and crunching as we indulged in the delicious contents of our hamper. So this is what we missed out on the day before! Plenty of food, more than the four of us can eat, ranging from salads and biscuits to wraps and much more, with a good bottle of wine.
Our tummies full, we made our way back to the Landy to explore more of the reserve. De Hoop is important for the conservation of lowland fynbos since it has the largest conserved area for this rare vegetation type. The Bredasdorp, Agulhas and Infanta area has an estimated 1500 plant species of the approximately 9 000 species found in the Cape Floristic Region. De Hoop is a photographer’s dream. Variations of green Fynbos dotted with electric crimson Proteas, and Ericas in splashed white, coral pink and Fuchsia. The tracks are laid out amongst the vegetation like ivory stone carpets. Wildlife sightings include the rare bontebok and Cape mountain zebra, eland, grey rhebuck, baboon, yellow mongoose, caracal and the occasional leopard.
It was still cloudy above us but I kept looking at the dunes in the distance, gloriously greeted by the sun. We went back there later, this time with camera in hand. Sadly my photographic skills can never capture the true beauty of the landscape.
Sadly too, the weather placed a slight damper on the pleasure of running around the dunes and the beach and we decided to call it a day. Another fabulous dinner awaited and the next day Sebastian promised to show us around some more.
As Murphy’s Law will have it, we wake up on our last morning to a glorious day, infused with warmth and sunshine. The charming Sebastian – a very pleasant person to be around – takes us on a little boat trip across the vlei which stretches for 19 km across the reserve. Pelicans breed on its waters each year and we also saw flamingos. Arriving at the jetty on the opposite bank, we were overcome by the nostalgia brought on by the lovely old stone cottages of Melkkamer Vlei. It feels like you have been transported back to the late 19th century, expecting to see women in dresses with tight bodices and bell-like skirts gathered at the waist and men in three-piece suits with sack coats. The old farm set-up consists of Melkkamer Vlei Cottage, Melkkamer Foremans Cottage and another stone building, mainly used for wedding functions. Each cottage has four beautifully appointed bedrooms and guests can choose between self-cater or a catered option with meals served at the Melkkamer Manor House. The original structures have been kept intact and the original dung floors, with paraffin lamplight and firelight add to the romance of the location.
After our brisk excursion, we have to return to go home. My mind is abuzz with words that can describe De Hoop: natural, beautiful, fascinating, tranquil…romantic. Our memories of this place will not lie scattered amongst the dunes. We have taken it with us to be kept and nurtured until we come back, because we will.
De Hoop Collection
Tel: +27 (0)861 334 667
Email: [email protected]
www.dehoopcollection.co.za
Cape Nature
National callers: 0861 CAPENATURE (227 362 8873)
International callers: 0027 861 227 362 8873
www.capenature.co.za
Nick Armstrong says
Beautifully, vividly, written Illana – a mental painting created by the ‘brush’ of your words.. 🙂 Fabulous photo’s and an absolute gem with Carl and the little ones – priceless! 🙂
Love it! 🙂 Karen and I absolutely Love our road-trips and touring and exploring the country – going away for weekends and long weekends – and this sounds like an absolute treasure! 🙂 Know the area – and she is absolutely beautiful indeed! 🙂
Just one thing – remember – weather doesn’t determine the magnificence and beauty of a day. Every day – every day – is a beautiful, perfect, beautiful day – any weather, any season – anywhere! 🙂 Love Mother Nature and the Gift of all – all – Her seasons, climates, and weather types. 🙂
Illana Dillon says
Thank you for your lovely comments, Nick! A visit to De Hoop is certainly a must, as it truly is a magnificent place. We loved every minute of our time spent there, even when it was cold and wet. You are so right though. Every side of Mother Nature should be enjoyed (and experienced) in all her glorious splendour. Instead of waiting for the sun to come out, we should be dancing in the rain 🙂